
Photo by Jim McCormac
Let others travel to Bora Bora: I vacation in West Virginia.
West Virginia is lumpy and green with no straight lines in it. Apparently the whole state has only one natural lake because the topography never set still long enough to puddle up. Well, I should say it’s lumpy and green except for the places where they sliced off mountains, relieved them of their coal and burned it all up, so that it’s all gone, as well as the mountains and the precious life they used to hold.
Elsewhere, it’s mostly unmarred.
Mostly. Yes, people have put up lots of shrines in the hollers consisting of soiled flags and aggressive signage, all in tribute to a soulless man who does not give one orange shit about them and has already used them up and tossed them aside like coal tailings. I do wish them well.
But it’s that wrinkliness of the topography that has supported so many different species. Appalachia is a living snapshot of diversity. With all the variations in elevation over short distances, all sorts of plants and critters have been able to tuck themselves away comfy over the millennia, and since this area never iced over completely, it didn’t have to start from scratch when the glaciers retreated. If one spot didn’t suit, it wasn’t much of a trudge up or down to a better spot. In fact there’s diversity all over the place, and yet, the scene is thriving. Nobody is accusing the black-and-white warbler of sneaking in there because of artificial quotas.
Naturally the powers that be try to knock the struts out from that diversity wherever possible, so that a warbler migrating from a specific tree in Costa Rica to another specific tree in West Virginia might arrive one spring day to find her tree gone, or maybe the whole surrounding forest. Or, dang! Maybe her entire mountain is missing. She’s going to be puzzled and upset, but justice being the flawed system that it is, she never had the bucks to figure in the decisions.
Still, there’s a lot of life left in West Virginia. That’s where the good people of the New River Birding and Nature Festival are, and they can prove it.
The road maps here look like a child’s bowl of spaghetti, post-tantrum. And those country roads are only intermittently blessed by pavement. We’re in big old school buses for most of the field trips, piloted by local savants. Let me tell you: these men and women can drive a crayon through a capillary.
The place is slathered with warblers in full springtime attire, including bling. And our guides are incomparable. I regret that America, more and more, is full of people who think they know more than I do, but don’t. So it’s a thrill to be surrounded by people who know one hell of a lot more than I do. And who are funny and smart and plumb joyful.
And who stuff you full of food and beer as though they’re planning to harvest your liver.
West Virginia, it is said by the people who know it, is God’s country, and I won’t dispute it. A place like this attracts appreciators. For the most part, people who want to see birds are also people who value the other things I value, and along with seeing life birds, I’ve made life friends on these trips. At this point I go to the festival to laugh my fool head off with them.
The chestnut-sided warbler is a bonus.

Photo by Mark Garland
This was a nice read, and a surprising one! I grew up on the WV border, one foot in Pa & the other in West Virginia. My one sister and her husband live there, and yup the people are poor but proud of what they have. Every year the little town of Buckhannon hosts a high school marching bands parade with bands from all over the world, and you’ll see young people dressed in their country’s traditional garb marching and playing instruments. I’m talking Thailand, Kenya, France, Germany–all over. There’s also a place outside Buckhannon called “The Lunatics Asylum”, built during the Civil War, closed in the early 1990s and now open for tours. Creepy as hell, it’s like the largest mental institution in the world. My best friend lives in Fairmont WV and always has stuff for us to go see. And of course the Hare Krishna’s main headquarters “Temple of Gold” is 10 miles from family. Love me some West Virginia. :^)
Caught me up short, there, with the Hare Krishnas! Not what I expected in West By God Virginia.
A friend of mine moved from NJ to West Virginia and is very happy about the change in scenery. If I could afford to retire I might go there.
Bruce, you might be able to retire there because you can get a LOT of bang for your real estate buck. And keep cash in hand.
Then there’s the Brooks Bird Club, and the WV Wildflower Pilgrimage people, two groups you described to a t. You got my heart and soul in every word of that whole paragraph “The place is slathered with warblers…” Some writer! Thanks. Thanks. Thanks.
You’re quite welcome! I am very fond of the scenery, the wildlife, AND the people.
Is that Elephant’s Child in the center?
Man, that Elephant’s Child is ringing a lot of bells–besides the Kipling bells–blogger from way back? Anyway, no. Sara Stratton (“Little Orange Guy” of blogdom).
Change the politics, make the evangelical loony’s stop making their religion the only one tolerable, make it stop being a KKK stronghold and sure, I’d visit.
The landscape is nice, much like the Oregon coastal range, the southern area. In fact, much of the southern Oregon coastal are was settled by people from the south.
I’m sure many of the people are fine folk, once you get by the veneer of racism and bigotry.
I’ll pass, for the moment though.
I feel compelled to point out that our Oregon has been a stronghold of the Ku Klux Klan, historically. I’m not sure I can speak for the racism in WV (suspect it’s overstated; and many black coal miners were fighting alongside white coal miners, all impoverished, against the evil barons over the last century) but Oregon was VERY devoted to staying as white as it possibly could. A truly shameful history.
Yep, Oregon, particularly the southern region, around Grants Pass and Medford, was the stronghold of the KKK, largest outside the south. The state as a whole has changed, the southern region less so, but some. Yeah, we had some laws that were the envy of racists, but…we changed.
It does look like a beautiful place which I will only ever see online or on TV or in movies.
Why, I think that describes most places in the world!
My first weekend with my future spouse took place in Harper’s Ferry back in 1987. The Shenandoah and Potomac rivers form a confluence there. Spectacular scenery and hiking trails. I remember visiting the John Brown Wax Museum. Back then it cost $2 and it was quite worth it. Admission more than doubled to $5 then as high as $7 until the museum closed last year. I wonder where the wax figures went.
I do not remember the wax museum but I remember Harper’s Ferry vividly, in particular a day in which a bunch of us went on a hike that (we realized) could be shortened by a sprint across the railroad bridge, so we scampered across, and I was dead last, having a fear both of heights and water (and it was just planks you could see the water through), and at the end the tracks take a fork, and there WAS a train coming, and I guess I guessed the right fork, unless this is TOTALLY something I made up, which is possible. Anyone here from Yorktown High School Hostel Club remember such an event?
OMG, Murr, as soon as I saw the photo by Jim McCormac I knew where you had been. I attended the festival last year — got the award for traveling the farthest distance to get there. Stayed at a house owned by Rachel, a festival organizer. Birded with Jim, Jodi, Keith Richardson, Geoff Heeter, Jim Rapp. Listened to talks by Kate Fallen and Bill Hilton (he was great). I love that festival and want to return there soon. W. VA was my 50th state. Great way to see it.
Wow! Fiftieth state! That is super impressive. This is my fourth visit to that festival but the first since 2014, more’s the pity. I love those people. If I’m not mistaken, Rachel owns 3/4 of the houses in that region.
Good on you, Murr. Such beauty there in its Appalachian lushness. Can’t say I’ve been scouring Zillow, though. Time to stay put and wait for the Big One.
I too am looking forward to the Big One! I hope it takes me out super fast.
My dad just exited via the Big One. Or more properly a lot of little ones that added together did the job. It seemed pretty quick to me, about a month from diagnosis to finish, but he had been in decline for some time and wasn’t graceful about it.
Most of my relations now deceased took a long time to die. One grandfather dropped dead from a massive stroke. The rest died of cancer, one after ever increasing dementia.
An adopted nephew died from a malfunctioning insulin pump. He knew it was malfunctioning based on the evidence at the scene, so even though it was quick, probably felt like an eternity.
It’s not usually easy. Both my brother and my mother-in-law checked out in a second. That’s the way to do it, only…later! BTW the Big One Jimmy is referring to is our massive earthquake, penciled in for sometime this century.
When I was young I remember people saying they wanted to be struck by lightning. That sounds better than my dad (stomach cancer, nine months from diagnosis to the end) or my mom (six years of increasing dementia, though ending in a coma was not so bad). Yeah, lightning.